White Sands NP and further west
Up bright and early, we set about doing van chores. But we then realised the grey dump point in our spot was broken, had bubbled up and then frozen. Also, the electric didn’t work so hadn’t charged (not a real issue though) and the water source was a bit questionable. So we had to drive round to the office who pointed us to another option thankfully.
All done, we headed north to Las Cruces in New Mexico for a quick grocery stop. Then treated ourselves to a US McDonalds breakfast for the road. Ellen wanted to try the Griddle, turns out thats a McMuffin but instead of your contents being wedged between two halves of a muffin... its two thick pancakes drenched in maple syrup... make of that what you will. (Ellen: I would like to add that I didn't realise it was pancakes when I ordered it...but I'm not sad about it because it was pretty good tbh)
Turning north east, we set off toward the White Sands national park and Alamogordo. This was when we started to realise that a vibration we’d started feeling the day before was getting worse. We had assumed it was the poor road surfaces, but it just got worse and worse. We decided to contact Vanish who, all credit to them were very helpful and booked us in for Tire checks that evening at a time that suited us. When we got to the White sands national park visitor’s centre and had a quick look. It appeared that the rear two tyres were bulging down the centre line and wearing unevenly.
Putting it aside for now, we went on to the trailhead and hiked over the crystal white dunes on the Alkali Flats trail. This is not a flat trail in itself, but goes out to the flats. It in fact was arduous up and down gypsum sand dunes with temperatures below freezing given the coming winter storm. After halfway, I’d seen it and was done with it, but was still glad to have been and done it. But once you’ve hiked over sand dunes for 2.5 miles, the last thing you’re interested in is another 2.5 miles of hiking over sand dunes! 😅
Heading out from White Sands, we had time to spare before the tyre appointment in Alamogordo. So, we decided to do a quick stop at the Space museum for an hour. It was interesting but definitely a needed a bit of updating. The museum, and the town really, seemed like the kind of place that had seen its heyday and was living off past glories of the early US rocket programs and Trinity test just to the north. I don’t mean to sound rude, it just felt a bit dated and run down. Maybe the weather and time of year played a part?
At the tyre place afterward we found that the bands in the two rear tyres had blown completely and that was causing the problems. Again credit to Vanish and the tyre (sorry “tire”) place, it was all sorted quickly enough and we were in and out of there in under 45 minutes.
Next stop was Chef Üdø’s “white sands culinary camp” where our steak and burger dinner was being prepared ready for us. Unfortunately due to the tyre change we arrived as the sun was just about gone, but we did still get some stars as the temperature plummeted. Needless to say, we stayed in the van with doors closed until Chef Üdø arrived in his jeep with dinner prepared for us.
After dinner he returned with some truffles and one of his dogs and stayed around for a bit of a chat before it got too cold. He told us we really should go look up in the mountains past Alamogordo if we have time, as everyone comes for the white sands national park and doesn’t realise what is just further up the road. We said our farewells, thanked him for dinner and the tip and headed to bed.
We got up early in the morning and headed up into the Lincoln National Forest as suggested. And boy was he right, we couldn’t make it in too far. But, we stopped at the Trestle bridge overlook which hangs in a dense pine forest, overlooking an old mountain railways trestle bridge. This was a stark contrast to the Chihuahuan desert we had been in for the past week. It was great to see so much green at last! But still freezing cold…
We had a quick breakfast and then hit the road for a 6 hour drive west to Tucson, Arizona!
I won’t go into the drive as frankly it was as you’d expect, 6 hours across desert. But, as the Chihuahuan turned into the Sonoran desert, we saw the landscape and terrain change dramatically. The temperature climbed and we saw our first “proper” cactus. The infamous Saguaro cactus!
Eventually we made it to camp Saguaro, a hip camp discovery Ellen made only two days before when we changed our plans. And what a find it was! On the edge of the west saguaro national park, this is a great spot for vanlifers who don’t need electric hookup etc. Cacti, trees, fire pits, hot showers and 20°C. Perfect.
A long night by the fire followed and probably the best nights sleep since we set off. We were now as far west as we would come this whole year and as I’d ever been before.
