Taking it slow, with a glass of Bordeaux
As the title suggests, we have slowed down the pace a bit since leaving Saint Émilion. Last time I mentioned that we had found a free aire within walking distance of the beach and nestled beneath the pine trees. Well, we decided to stay here a couple of nights as it was so nice. Then the second morning we got up and headed back toward Arés to dump the grey tank and pick up some extra food and bits and pieces we’d forgotten.
Heading south and around the Arcachon Bay we found ourselves on the waterfront in the town of Arcachon (hence the bay). The town was popular with the French Bourgeois in the Belle Époque (late 19th Century) who built elaborate villas in the hills overlooking the waterfront and the casino. These villas in the area known as the “ville d’hiver” are still there today and displayed some stunning architecture of various styles. We wandered these streets after lunch and ended with a coffee and Crepe on the waterfront.
Moving south from Arcachon along the coast we arrived at a paid Aire similar to the last two nights. Beneath the pines and near a beach. The extra bonus was electric hookup, water/dump and a small surf resort town nearby for anything we may need. This night saw my first attempt at in-van baking with the air fryer. Nutella muffins, mainly because thats all we had the ingredients for. They didn't turn out too badly to be honest and were just the sweet treat I needed on this hump day. Getting used to unstructured van life has been proving a bit tough the last couple of days and this was a little bit of normal to feel a bit more grounded. I did however forget to take a photo before devouring the first one.
The rest of the muffins didn't last the night either...
The plan was to stay the one night but given the next day was Valentines Day, we decided to pay for a second night and spend the day walking to the nearby town of Biscarrosse. This was just a small surf/seaside town in the off season… so not much to report really. Most places were shut, even the beach, as serious efforts were underway to stop the monstrous sand dunes between the north of the town and the sea from engulfing whole residential areas!
Despite this, we found ourselves in a bar with, as we both agreed, a surprisingly friendly and helpful waitress. Instead of a condescending default to English, she slowed her French down enough for us to be able to discuss things with her. Even more surprising was the fact that she noticed that Ellen’s Tuna wasn’t “bien cuite” as she’d ordered and took it back to the kitchen without us even mentioning it. I only mention all this because good service like this is surprising in France in our experience. Needless to say we left a big tip before we headed back to the van for a slow afternoon chilling back in the pines and watching “A good year” on Prime.
The next day we had decided to make the most of the improving weather and head back to a station with train links to Bordeaux. Yes we had said we would probably do it later in the year but the opportunity was there and we had plenty of time. So we headed back north-east to Biganos to catch the train into central Bordeaux. Half an hour later and we were then taking the tram through the city highlights up to the north of the city and the Bordeaux Wine Museum.
Filling the lower floor and cellar of an old Irish Wine Merchant’s house in the historic Chartrons district, the museum of wine does seem a bit odd from the outside. But rest assured this was a fantastic place overflowing with information on the history of wine. We didn’t know for example that no-one knew how to age wine in barrels until the 19th century! (Aging to impart new flavours, not just storing) Also, a free wine tasting didn’t go a miss!
Next stop was lunch, especially needed after the wine tasting. This however was a big French city and we’re not sure if the repeated “we are fully booked” with many clearly empty tables was genuine or because they immediately knew we weren’t French. A bit of a contrast to the service in Biscarrosse for example.
Eventually we found somewhere on the waterfront and after lunch continued on toward the “Cité du vin”. A huge building shaped like a wine decanter position between the old port and Garonne river. We started our visit here with yet another wine tasting (though not guided this time). As we drank our glasses on the balcony, we overlooked the city and the old half-moon quay that was once full of moored ships servicing the wine trade.
The tasting was followed by a self-guided tour around the permanent exhibition. Although interesting with various exhibits ranging from nosing atomisers and more on the history of wine, we did eventually find ourselves a bit “Wined out”. You know that feeling when you’ve been at a specialist museum for a long time and just can’t take any more information in? Yeah that.
So a quick stop in the gift shop, which proved fruitless. Followed by a quick stop at the cave (wine cellar) which proved fruitful!
Bottles in-hand, we jumped on the tram back south to wander down the waterfront from Quinconces to Place de la Bourse. Stopping for the obligatory glass of wine in a cafe where everyone sits facing out toward the road. Then we jumped back on the tram to the train station and I got to experience my first ever double decker train! (I was far too excited by this experience)
Back in Biganos, we found a little park-up nearby and hit the sack early. The next day was set to be a van chores day and a longer drive down through the national forest and the west coast toward the Pyrenees...
