Seville, Forests & Into Portugal
Page may contain affiliate links & we may recieve a percentage of any qualifying purchases.
So, I left off last time that we were sat in an Aire in Seville in 25° and plotting our next move. The Aire was nothing special, just a car park in a vehicle logistics site near the port. But it was very secure, walking distance to the city centre and frankly, why would you spend time sat in a van when you have the gorgeous city of Seville right outside anyway? It was a safe place to sleep and leave the van during the day, it had water, bins and a dump point. All you need for €10 a night, so far cheaper than any hotel.
It was 4pm when we arrived but this being the first nice Saturday in a while in Spain we knew that this was still Early. I sat down and finished the last blog entry and around 5:30 we walked from the Aire into the city. As we neared the Colombian embassy on the outskirts of the parks, we were passed by groups of people dressed up smartly as if for a night out. Meanwhile, I was in my scruffiest t-shirt (covered in silicone from building the van) and cargo shorts so felt like I stood out a bit. Ellen of course ‘hadn’t made an effort’ but still looked on top form and would have easily fit in.
Still, we passed the hoards of people, who we think were actually there on a luxury cruise ship docked in the Canal Sevilla-Bonanza, and came to the entrance of parque de María Luisa. The central towers of Plaza de España framed between the trees lining the avenue in the lowering sun. The park itself full of people relaxing and enjoying the end of their Saturday in the glorious weather.
Weaving past the influencers all lining up for the perfect shots and the horse drawn carriages (with very sad looking horses) we made it to Plaza de España. Awe inspiring, if you can make it through the tourists, influencers and the photographers (yeah we added to those numbers I guess) you’ll notice small details such as the canal around the outside with people rowing boats along and the small alcoves dedicated to each area of Spain in beautiful tiling all along the outside.
Heading on from Plaza de España we set off in search of dinner in the form of Tapas. However, this was where we found that this being the first good weather weekend for months, EVERYONE was out tonight! There were hoards of people heading to the bars and restaurants. We found a bar for a drink and then headed on in search of food. But it was so busy we found ourselves in a small bar that had a table in the front. But as we went in we were taken round to the half empty back room with the other English and French tourists. So not exactly the vibe we were aiming for and the food was just ok. But we got to a point where there were so many people still trying to come in that we decided not to risk going to another place and just ate there instead before getting an uber back to the Aire.
The taxi ride back however was actually pretty good despite the expense. It took us down the canal side and we got to see gorgeous Seville lit up at night for the first time.
When we got back that night, we tried to book alcazar but as usual we had to book days in advance. We decided that we would plan for a few days here and so did try to get tickets for the Tuesday. But, the website failed time and again and we gave up.
Instead the next day was a bit of a chill one walking through the parks and exploring the streets a bit more. We tried to get lunch again and this time managed to get in (a bit late) at the lovely restaurante Malquerer near the Alcazar. The food here was great and we were grateful they could fit us in after the chaos of the night before.
We decided after lunch that we would walk past the Alcazar and see if there were any on the door tickets like the Mesquita in Cordoba. But no, this was after 2pm on a Sunday and of course, the ticket office was closed. Ok, no problem, next try, the Cathedral. Nope, line was out the door and across the square and so we gave up on the paid stuff.
Instead, grabbing a delicious ice cream on the way from Heladaria Bolas we ended up wandering to the Setas de Sevilla or “The mushrooms”. Impressive artistic structures like giant bulbous mushrooms rising out of the city. At night they are lit up in an array of colours. As we’d decided not to bother trying to get into paid attractions today, we didn’t go up the top but instead continued on to the Alameda de Hercules. This is a less visited pedestrianised parade in the northern end of the city centre and as a result much more local and authentic. We stopped at a tiny bar and sat out in the sun having a drink before heading off again via a restaurant we wanted to try to check the opening times. We then arrived back at the Canal Sevilla-Bonanza to watch the sunset over the water and the bridges and spend some time before heading back to Brunilda to see if we could get in without a reservation.
This is the thing, we knew about this restaurant before arriving in Seville. But, the night before of course was so busy that we never bothered to try. We had however looked online and they were fully booked all week! However, we arrived just after opening (8:30pm!) and they said they could fit us in only if we could be done by 10pm. No problem!
So, we don’t know if this is normal or just because they needed the table (of course we like to think it’s the former) but the service was outstanding and the food… oh. My. God. The food here was biblically good. Ok maybe I’m exaggerating, but it was another out of body experience for me that I hadn’t had since that cheesecake in Ronda. But for the whole meal. And yes the Cheesecake was probably number 2 or 3 on the list for me here!
So if you’re coming to Seville. Book into Brunilda and you can thank me later!
Very, very full, we took the long walk back along the canal. It’s a good job we did as well as we walked past a very old style, but very well preserved looking ship. I’m talking early exploration era Caravel style.
Turns out that this was the replica Nao Victoria ship (fibreglass underneath all the wood and hard wearing floors etc) and just down the way was the museum. Duly noted as the first stop the next day as there was no sign of pre booking tickets.
The next morning we got up and headed back across the bridge. But this time we had decided to try out the Lime hire bikes through Uber as a cheaper but fast way to get around that would also save my now sore feet (we had walked 9 miles in the city the previous day!) Ah the perks of being in your 30’s.
First stop, as decided the night before, the Nao Victoria. For those who don’t know, the Nao Victoria was the first ship to circumnavigate the Globe. The museum here was very quiet but very interesting and detailed the history of that first expedition around the world and how this was the only ship of the 5 that set out that made it all the way. Although with minimal remaining crew, a different captain and the expedition leader having been killed in the Philippines due to his religious zealotry/stupidity. The latter’s name should be familiar, this was Magellan. The elected captain who returned the Nao Victoria to Seville should also be familiar, this was Elcano. The story is epic and just bizarre in many ways, Ellen is now reading the book ‘Over the edge of the world’ - Laurence Bergreen about the expedition. The true story is mad and she highly recommends it.
Included in the ticket was entry to the ship itself too and of course I just HAD to go have a look around. Of course as it is a seaworthy replica, it does have modern adaptations such as hard wearing floors and fibreglass reinforced hull etc. but for the most part it tries to stay faithful to the original from what days they have. I didn’t really want to leave and sparked yet again the desire to sort upgrading my RYA Competent Crew to a Day Skipper certification. Maybe even fit in a little sailing trip this year? More on that in a later blog maybe…
After a not so interesting lunch (McDonalds as everywhere was still reserved) we cycled to Casa de Pilatos as we’d heard this was meant to be quieter and not that many people visit.
That turned out to be no longer true. The queue was out the door and down the side street as if people were queueing for a gig! Turns out today was free entry for EU citizens, which obviously we no longer are. (don’t mention the B word Tom! 😠) We now have to conclude as a top tip - Spain’s shoulder seasons are shrinking, so make sure you book everything!
Deflated yet again (what a rollercoaster this is turning out to be) we decided to wander round and head back to waterfront for a drink. Afterward we wandered across the bridge and down the West Bank of the canal where we discovered that these bars were more shaded but this meant less people and many were very nice. We stopped at one and sat for an hour or two enjoying a Tinto de Verano and a sangria looking out across the water to the Torre de Oro.
After, we then cycled farther north along the canal to the less touristy end of the city. Ditching the bikes, we walked back into Alameda de Hercules to get away from the crowds of tourists. Here we had a couple of drinks and tapas in the bars finishing off at Casa Paco.
Then it was back to the van. We tried out the Bolt bikes this time instead of Lime. This turned out to be a terrible idea. Horrid, slow and uncomfortable ride, especially on the cobbled streets where they rattled embarrassingly all the way. I’m not sure what was rattling louder, the bike frame or my pelvis! Either way pedestrians knew we were coming and looked on in disgust. We’re so sorry!
We ditched these monstrosities at the next parking spot and walked to get some Lime bikes again. I’m glad to report, far more comfortable ride.
We rode back south down the canal and back to near the Aire and then the short walk back home to Noodle and wished a fair well to this beautiful city
Next day the weather was turning again but we needed to do all the normal van chores and a big shop. So the weather wasn’t a problem. We got all the draining and filling done before leaving the Aire, then headed north to find a Carrefour for a big shop. Next was Laundry at an auto laundrette at a shell garage round the corner (so glamorous).
Laundry done we headed north west away from the touristy coastal areas and into the forests around the Rio Tinto (so named as the soils around colour the river red and purple). We stopped by chance at a newly gravelled parking area along a silent, freshly re-paved road. Turns out the EU funded a renovation for this area after forest fires.
Anyway, this place looked good for a stop. But it turned out it was perfect. It wasn’t on Park4Night, but it was all we needed. The Sun came out and we walked down to the little stream by the bridge and realised we could stay here. We spent the afternoon relaxing (and washing) in the cool fresh water stream and then retired to the van for the evening.
We ended up spending two nights here. It was so peaceful, dark and private. We had been worried about the “road” (track really) but in 48 hours we had less than 10 vehicles pass. Drop us a message on Instagram if you want the location.
After a couple of days here we then decided to meander westward through the countryside. Past the Rio Tinto and the purple cliffs around the surrounding mining country. Eventually we found ourselves at a picnic area for lunch right along the Portugal border!
After a brief leg stretch, drone shots and lunch, we pressed on across the border, our third crossing this trip! Winding through the Portuguese countryside we made it to our target park-up at a lakeside half an hour from the coast. However, the weather was coming in, and little did we realise that we were in for one hell of a night.
Storm Nuria hit us with full fury that night. The van shook violently, the rain pelting us from all sides. The sound and all-encompassing experience of a storm like this is amplified drastically when you’re essentially inside a big, slab-sided metal box that’s sat on 4 springs. The noise and shaking was terrifying and Ellen understandably was concerned throughout the night.
Needless to say we didn’t get much sleep. But thankfully the weather calmed substantially by mid morning. By mid afternoon you wouldn’t have thought the night we had had even happened. Glorious sunshine again. Thankfully we managed to sleep a lot better that evening as a result and were greeted with a misty millpond the following morning.
This gorgeous sight obviously needed the silence interrupting by the whine of a drone, so up it went and I managed to get a few good shots and videos including one of the mist across the lake.
A fine way to set us up for the day ahead as we set off into Portugal proper.
