Back to Spain - Castilla y Leon
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Driving further along the Douro on our last day in Portugal, we headed for the small town of Bemposta. Here, parking behind the sports centre, we set off on a 5 mile hike down to a nearby three tiered waterfall and back as the heavens opened on us yet again. We were glad that this was to be the last of the bad weather for a while however, and returning to the van we made our way across the border into Spain to a small aire. After spending the morning here, the weather had finally turned back to what we expected from Spain and Portugal. Blazing sunshine and barely a cloud.
Setting off toward Salamanca, we had some van chores to get done at the E.Leclerc, laundry, groceries etc. This meant we ended up spending most of the day in the car park. But it did give us a chance to reset and find a paid aire north of the city. Around 5pm we made it to the aire and jumped onto the bus into Salamanca.
The city of two cathedrals is a beautiful city that we knew nothing about before coming. But it’s safe to call it “Spain’s Oxford”. Being home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, older than Oxford (Officially at least). Its beautiful streets ornate with flowers, trees and golden sand coloured buildings were a feast for the eyes.
That evening we found a fantastic wine and tapas bar, Winelovers. The tapas was simply inspired and between our poor Spanish (French is our better language nowadays) and the waitress’s bits of English, we managed to get by and have a wonderful evening. Before heading back, we took some time to wander the city in the night air before catching the last bus back to our Aire.
The next day, sun blazing, we set off toward the UNESCO listed ancient walled city of Ávila. We stopped for lunch at a small viewpoint overlooking the city and then headed down to the paid Aire just outside the walls.
We spent that afternoon in Ávila wandering its ancient streets and then up onto the walls for amazing views of the mountains to the south and the plains to the north. A stunning little town packed full of history and the birthplace of Saint Theresa, if that's your bag.
Heading off of the walls we wandered down under the Roman bridge and along the river. A brief drink at the expo centre and then back to the van for a steak dinner. Lovely.
The next morning we got up and joined the queue for the dump point whilst Ellen was in a meeting. Jobs done, I drove us out of the aire and pulled into the giant empty car park next to it for Ellen to finish her meeting.
We’d only been sat 5 minutes and some guy came up and knocked on the door and kept saying it’s not allowed for campervans. Even though it’s a free car park, completely empty, could fit a few hundred cars and was next to the Aire we’d literally just came out of. We weren’t hurting anyone or in anyone’s way, we weren’t staying in it overnight and were only going to be here for half an hour. But he was having none of it.
We left, and moved to the shrine viewpoint.
Ellen’s meeting over, we moved on toward the breathtaking city of Segovia for the afternoon. We found somewhere to park on the outskirts and walked in toward the alcazar, which is said to have inspired Walt Disney’s Castle. Though to understand this, it is best seen from below, which we managed to do on our way out later in the day (See title image).
Inside the Alcazar it is beautifully decorated and restored and full of the history of the Cadillac y Leon region. The tour of the tower gave great views across to the cathedral and to the mountains beyond.
After the Alcazar, we wandered the streets past the cathedral and grabbed a quick drink in plaza Major before heading down to the UNESCO world heritage Roman Aquaduct. There’s a lot of UNESCO sites around here it would seem!
We followed the aqueduct round until its end where it would have once gone underground and headed out toward the mountains to the south. Heading on, we stopped for the photo of the Alcazar from below and then onward north towards Castillo da Coca.
Stopping a little way south of Coca we found a quiet recreation area in a forest with flat ground, miles from anyone (and any signal) and settled in for a couple of days.
Friday was at least 25° and sunny for most of the day so got out the hammock and very few people turned up through the day. One couple who we think had been staying in their small van further down a track by the river came up at one point. Initially, when the guy shouted across at us as they drove up a little way from us we thought “oh no, here we go again, more angry locals making us move on. We’re literally in no-one’s way here in the middle of nowhere”.
When they came and parked a little ways in front and got out we were a little stand off-ish at first. But they kept distance and his girlfriend/wife also came out with him as they questioningly said “hello?” Obviously a bit wary I was a tad rude and just stuck my head out with a “what?!”
He asked if we knew Spanish, which I obstinately said “no” to. Which technically is a lie, we know enough to get by. Then we realised they were just Vanlifers like us and I think his girlfriend must have reminded him that a stranger shouting at you when you’re a vanlifer immediately puts you on edge! Because they were very happy and friendly and were simply trying to tell us that there was a small pool down the track that is higher than normal and good for swimming in! (Although at the time we thought they meant the river, we didn’t discover the hidden pool until it was too late).
Apologetically and rather embarrassed by my stand-offishness we apologised and thanked them for the info and said we’d check it out. I’d say lesson learned, but we got the impression that they knew the feeling and were trying to be friendly in approaching us to put us at ease.
On the infinitesimally small chance that you guys are reading this, then thank you again and my apologies! 😅
We spent the rest of the day relaxing and working out in the sun, using the park equipment to assist the latter. At one point I decided to use the see-saw with Ellen sat on it for squats, I’ve been slacking since we left and I felt it the next morning! (The next few mornings to be honest)
That evening after dinner we went out to the recreation area, which was completely empty and found the basketball and hoops. I then realised that I am nowhere near as cardio fit as I used to be. But it didn’t stop me pulling out all the old moves. 😅 Slowly dying, we returned to the van and ended the night with trusty old Mario kart.
Saturday would see us (quite sore with DOMS) hit the road north. Swinging by castillo da coca which we forgot to book 2 days in advance and therefore couldn’t go in. But still amazing to look at from the outside! Then onward farther toward the north coast and the snow-capped peaks of the Picos de Europa.
