Northern Spain and back to France
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First off, this is actually almost two weeks' worth to follow. We've spent some time with family for a few days and then I've been having a bit of a mental health struggle when trying to write just the first week. So apologies and hopefully I have trimmed this down enough to not bore you to tears.
The next stop on this second leg of Spain saw us heading north to the Picos de europa. On the way we took a brief stop in the quiet little hilltop village of Portillo, where we struggled to find our way out of the narrow streets. Made all the harder by a group of people on horseback with beers in hand down the main street! Nonetheless, this was a lovely little spot and we just wish we had time to spend a day or two here.
Moving onward, that evening we finally reached the village of Sotres, high up in the Picos de Europa national park. After an evening in one of the local hotel bars, we returned to the van ready to be up for a big hike the next morning (well, big by my standards). After breakfast we hit the trail... up... up... and more up.
Though, this was only the start, the full hike would be 9 miles. The views were spectacular and eventually we reached a downhill that wove through woodlands and streams. We finally made it down to the next village and headed back on the long ascent back to Sotres.
And when I say long, this was 2-3 miles of constant uphill trail carved into the side of the mountain. I hit the wall about 2/3 of the way up. I got to the point where I just did not want to go on. Alot of persuasion and encouragement from Ellen and in my mind, the decision of "I either stay here and die on the side of a mountain or I drag my sorry ass off one step at a time". Dramatic maybe, but thats just where I was at that point.
We made it back eventually, a shower and much needed meal and beer at the hotel bar that evening and I started to feel more normal. But I wasn't keen to do it again in a hurry...
The next morning, aching all over, we headed west to the Lagos de Covadonga. We headed straight up to the village of Covadonga, only to realise that Lonely Planet failed to mention that there is a bus to get up to the lakes! We turned around and found the free Campervan Aire near one of the official car parks lower down and figured out how to get a bus up to the Lakes.
This bus requirement was a blessing in disguise as it turns out. The drive up to the lakes is one of those stereotypical mountain passes you see in pictures. A long coach swinging around a narrow steep ascent on the edge of a mountain side, peaks dissapearing beneath as it climbs higher and higher.
Eventually we reached possibly the most spectacular bus station in Europe. With vast open views across the Picos de Europa and out over the Bay of Biscay as the sun beat down upon us. Today's hiking was to be far less ardous than the day before, and despite the myriad of issues I had with my feet, I felt in good enough form to get up and around this beautiful area. We began the ascent, a brief stop to look through the small exhibit on the range's geological and natural history.
The hike took us alongside the crystal blue lakes with snowcapped peaks dominating the skylines surrounding us. We took a small detour off the main trail at one stage and found ourselves in a fairytale-esque forest with spring flowers littering the floor between the roots and clearings of the enourmous old beech trees.
As we had to book the bus, we had only managed to get a slot on a later one around 7pm (which here in Spain is positively early). So, we spent most of the afternoon chilling around the lakes and waiting for the bus. We tried to look up where we would go the next day, but there was barely any signal up here, pretty normal for mountain ranges right? Well so we thought...
Eventually we got back down to the van and moved oursleves further back into the Aire where we had noticed more people were staying, further from the road. We had terrible signal here too, but again, thought little of it. It was a lovely little community feel here further back in the Aire and many people were out eating in the sunshine.
Then a message came through from one of our friends asking if we were ok with the blackouts?
What blackouts?
Somehow, we had ended up in the mountains on the day the major blackout had hit Spain and Portugal! By sheer fluke, we had found ourselves somewhere completely away from civilisation just as civilisation had ground to a hault! We had literally no idea!
The next day we set off out of the mountains and fully expecting to see some sort of fallout from the nationwide blackouts not 24hrs earlier. It turned out there was barely any evidence anything had happened. Most of Spain was back to normal it would seem. About halfway to Bilbao, we pulled into a town to resupply and give the van it's first clean inside and out in probably two months. A very hot affair in the 27 degree heat.
Next stop, Bilbao, well a small suburb outside Bilbao at least. We parked at the free Aire near the train station and took our chances with the ticket machines given the recent power outages and headed into Bilbao for the evening. We spent most of the time trying to find places, many were closed, either due to the power or due to it being a Tuesday, however, we found a great spot in Santa Maria bar. Here in the Basque country its mostly Pintxos rather than Tapas, small bits of food (mostly seafood or Iberico based) served on a slice of bread similar to baguette. Unfortunately this didn't really satisfy unless you ate alot of it, and because the only open restaurants were all full, we had to make do with filling up on bread.
The next day we headed back in and straight to the covered market, here in the foodhall, the pintxos selection was much more varied and multiple outlets meant you could try all sorts. This was great for lunch before we headed over to the Guggenheim. Famous with good reason, our favourite exhibits being the Hungarian Museum's collection including Rebrandts, a Van-Gogh and a Da-Vinci. Also the pop-art exhibit including a Lichtenstein and in interesting AI architectural video piece.
That evening the Pintxos stress ensued yet again. After a near breakdown in one bar as we discovered that tomorrow was labour day and so every man and his dog (literally) were out on a bender tonight, we tried to work out what to do about actually eating something other than open sandwiches we found a handy cafe restaurant (full of tourists, but we didn't care at this point) then headed to the station to get an early night.
The next day we headed further east toward San Sebastian and found a nice quiet spot with no cars and one spanish motorhome (Parked obnoxiously). We spent the afternoon relaxing in the van and Ellen was going to go for a walk in the park next to us. However, not long before she was going to head out, there was a loud, angry banging on the back of the van with shouting! It was some older guy with his wife walking their dog who of all the people who had started to arrive in the evening (for some reason) decided to take offence at a UK campervan sat here. This riled me up and put us both on edge as to how safe or welcoming this town would be. Especially as he completely ignored the Spanish motorhome parked with doors open, dog running around and across 4 spaces!
We moved not long after, adrenaline pumping and found somewhere near the cinema and shopping centre, but a bit dubious about how safe it would be. We walked round to watch Thunderbolts at the cinema (Oringal audio with spanish subtitles) and afterward we spent 15 mins of trying to figure if we should find somewhere else away from San Sebastian, just get into France or stay. Bear in mind it was midnight at this point and the prospect of heading an hour north into France was very much in our minds.
Eventually we did stay here, full stealth mode and in the day's clothes just in case. Needless to say we had a restless, anxiety ridden sleep.
The next morning we got up and dressed and out asap. Ellen managed to find a paid-for aire that we didnt know about within walking distance of the town centre, albeit not a short one. We got there around 9:30 and luckily found a spot to park-up, shower and have breakfast.
We then spent the rest of morning waiting out the horrendous hailstorms and watching the Reacher S3 finale. As the weather calmed down, we walked into San Sebastian itself. It was still raining on and off as wandered around the bay and the Pintxos bars. Again we we started to get worn out by the stress of pintxos and just wanted a decent amount of food, this was so different to tapas and just feels like appetisers in all honesty. And we can do without the people staring over your shoulder as you try to eat messy food with just a toothpick, a slice of bread and tiny napkins.
We headed into the main square and had a drink, because thats what everyone else seems to do in the afternoon in Spain, then took a walk around the headland after a brief detour to buy some takeaway Basque cheeecakes which were delicious as always. We soon found ourselves at the surf beach where the sun came out in full glory. We stayed to watch the surfers for a bit, had a drink on the waterfront and bought ourselves some new hats at one of the skate/surf shops.
We wandered back into the old town to catch the low sun over the bay, then on to our reserved restaurant for dinner. Note we reserved a restaurant. This is how we think it should be done, Pintxos with a drink, then go to a proper restaurant, unlike Tapas which you can eat all night. We had an awesome and huge Txuleta steak between us and I of course finished off with the basque cheesecake - ranking no 2 or 3 on Tom's cheescake index!
Whilst this was a welcome ending to our time here, especially with the beautiful walk back along the promenade, we decided it was time to leave Spain. We were worn down now by the late mealtimes, cities and drinking culture. It was time to head back to France and to catch up with Ellen's parents whilst they were in the country.
After a very long slog north then east along the southern Toll routes we come to this week. We spent a few days at Ellen's parents, and struggling to leave, Ellen decided that she will head back to see them a week earlier when we are due to return to the UK later in the year. So unfortunately to those following us on Instagram, you will be left with me unsupervised, doing something either really boring or completely stupid sometime in the nearish future! This brief interlude and a bit of a mental health moment on my part are why this is a two weeker.
Leaving the house and the Pyrenees, we set off to an aire south of Bezier where we stayed for a few nights in great comfort. It's not highly rated as its surrounded by holiday campsites but it was of little concern to us in all fairness. The weather stayed dry and one day we spent the morning on the beach. However, one thing we discovered upon arrival was the warning for low oil coming on!
I had thought only last week "I should probably check the oil as we've been on the road a while". We had to go to carrefour for a resupply anyway so we picked up a small bottle of oil, surely it would only need a top-up?
Back at the aire I had a bit of a panic when we realised the dipstick was dry! I put the litre in... Dipstick still dry... No, I must be reading it wrong surely and it's fine. We went about our afternoon but as we walked down to the beach i freaked out a little and Ellen made the decision to get to Carrefour now and get more oil to put my mind at ease. Yeah we probably shouldn't have driven it but it was fine earlier and now it actually had a bit more in it...
5L bought and almost all of it put in. Finally reading nicely. Lesson learned, 8000 km driven in Noodle and she probably wants an oil check! Hey, at least we now have some spare. (also, checked for leaks and there are none thankfully)
Honestly though, call myself an engineer!
After all that, we headed on this morning further east. Taking a brief stop for lunch on the edge of the Camargue reserve and then onward further toward southern Provence where we have settled in for a quiet night, with a glass of wine from Portugal and another Episode of Andor.
